My last post was on 5/26/2015 "Fuel Injection for Dummies". Long story short, rebuilt head and bought the proper parts for the fuel distributor pump. On the morning of December 4th, after I started the 580C, it seemed to have problems running the hydraulics, it seemed to be under load and would stall out easily. I ran it for at least 10 minutes and ran it back to the shop because things weren't getting any better. First thing I did was remove the valve cover to check valve lash (lesson learned from last post). Both push rods on the second cylinder from the radiator were severely bent and off of the rocker arm. I straightened them with a hammer and block to wood.....a bit under pressure here, lashed the valves, reassembled everything, and it ran great the rest of the day. Yesterday afternoon, December 5th, when I started it, it was significantly surging at idle. I increased the engine speed until the engine smooth out for at least a couple of minutes and returned it to idle. It still was surging so I shut it down, popped the valve cover, and found bent push rods again. I paid a little more attention this time and found that one the of valves was extremely sticky.....it was hard to depress and took over 10 seconds to come back up after being depressed. I removed the valve spring and seal and found the valve guide collar was broke. I chucked the valve stem up in a drill motor, ran the valve up and down while oiling it to free it up a bit. I reassembled everything but left out the valve seal. I am hoping I can limp along for a week or two before tearing down the engine and rebuilding the head again.
Possible Problems:
USER ERROR?
I have an external heater that runs between the water pump lines and heat the engine up that way because my block heater is broken. I am Either injection scared because of what happened last time so I will crank the engine over for 5 to 30 seconds before it runs. I idle it for 5 to 15 minutes before I use it.
If there is a better way to start this engine, please let me know.....ordered block heater and plan on using that and the external heater. I am not sure if spinning this engine over for a long time will hurt it or not.
MACHINE SHOP:
The machine shop had problems rebuilding the head and took 2 months to do it. They tried to install sleeves in the old valve guides, but the old valve guides would crack so they had to press out the old ones and install all new valve guides.
I am also concerned whether or not a valve stem seal should be used. You can see the valve seal sitting by the cracked valve guide.
Question 1:
Do these heads require valve seals or does the valve need the oil for lubrication? If so, should I remove the valve seals? Both? or just exhaust?
Question 2:
It has not been started since the head rebuild this summer in under 40* temps. What is the best starting procedure for this engine? I am scared of Either! The head and valves on cylinder 2 had pitting from excessive use of either.....my fault! When and how if should I use it?
Question 3:
How on earth did I not hydro lock that cylinder? Did it leak by the rings that much or did shut it down in time. It did run fine after I beat the push rods straight the first time and I did not run it very long the second time.
Possible Problems:
USER ERROR?
I have an external heater that runs between the water pump lines and heat the engine up that way because my block heater is broken. I am Either injection scared because of what happened last time so I will crank the engine over for 5 to 30 seconds before it runs. I idle it for 5 to 15 minutes before I use it.
If there is a better way to start this engine, please let me know.....ordered block heater and plan on using that and the external heater. I am not sure if spinning this engine over for a long time will hurt it or not.
MACHINE SHOP:
The machine shop had problems rebuilding the head and took 2 months to do it. They tried to install sleeves in the old valve guides, but the old valve guides would crack so they had to press out the old ones and install all new valve guides.
I am also concerned whether or not a valve stem seal should be used. You can see the valve seal sitting by the cracked valve guide.
Question 1:
Do these heads require valve seals or does the valve need the oil for lubrication? If so, should I remove the valve seals? Both? or just exhaust?
Question 2:
It has not been started since the head rebuild this summer in under 40* temps. What is the best starting procedure for this engine? I am scared of Either! The head and valves on cylinder 2 had pitting from excessive use of either.....my fault! When and how if should I use it?
Question 3:
How on earth did I not hydro lock that cylinder? Did it leak by the rings that much or did shut it down in time. It did run fine after I beat the push rods straight the first time and I did not run it very long the second time.
CASE 580C: BROKEN VALVE GUIDE, Valve Seal? Either Injection
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