Since the stuck brakes are now fixed, we are moving on to repairing the Case Model 33 Backhoe which has alot of leaks in the valves under the tower controls. I smartly decided that removing the backhoe from the tractor was the only way to do this properly and without alot of charlie horses and fussing.
After reading the shop manual, and analyzing the situation, I was frankly amazed at how easy it is to remove the backhoe. Honestly, there is less confusion than removing a small front-end bucket off a small Kabota.
Here are some pictures:
Pic of the rear of the backhoe before cleaning some of the oil/dirt/muk off:
I had to put the tires back on so I could drive the tractor away from the backhoe. Then I used a 3/4" breaker bar with a long pipe attached to get the leverage needed to unscrew the two large nuts (I believe 1 7/8")on each side (only back them off about an inch). I used plenty of penetrating oil on all the pins and nuts/threads for a couple days before doing the removal. I was pretty shocked to read in the shop manual that these nuts require a torque setting of almost 600 foot pounds! I was thinking that they would be a royal pain to loosen, but they came off pretty easy.
Pic of large nut that needs to be loosened:
After these nuts are loose, you start the tractor and slowly ease the backhoe up just enough to take some pressure off the two large pins so you can tap them out with a hammer. I had to work the stabilizers up and down as the pins were being tapped out to reduce the friction/load on the pins. (Most pins have a circlip, but mine had holes drilled thru the pins with a small bolt holding it in place). Once the two pins are out, continue raising the stabilizers as you watch the bottom of the backhoe begin to raise up out of the large "U" shaped slots at the bottom.
There is a large pin like this one on each side which then must be removed.
Pic showing the "U" shaped slots at the bottom of the tractor hitch:
Then make sure that the backhoe is raised high enough to allow the tractor to drive away. Be sure to then place a bunch of 6x6 blocks under the backhoe base so that it will be stable even if the stabilizers leak-down. The shop manual showed dismounting the backhoe in a "A" position, but I just left the backhoe in the fully extended position, which makes it easier for us to work on the cylinder joints. Here is a pic of the backhoe removed:
You will drive the tractor forward only about a foot. Then shut-down the tractor and disconnect the two quick-disconnect hydraulic lines from the tractor. (Be sure to reconnect the supply line to the return line of the tractor before starting the tractor and driving off. If you do not connect these two lines, the hydraulic pump will be straining under enormous pressure with no relief, and I imagine that you could blow lines or ruin the hydraulic pump).
Now we have MUCH easier access to all the lines/valves under the control tower:
(out of pic space, so will post next)
After reading the shop manual, and analyzing the situation, I was frankly amazed at how easy it is to remove the backhoe. Honestly, there is less confusion than removing a small front-end bucket off a small Kabota.
Here are some pictures:
Pic of the rear of the backhoe before cleaning some of the oil/dirt/muk off:
I had to put the tires back on so I could drive the tractor away from the backhoe. Then I used a 3/4" breaker bar with a long pipe attached to get the leverage needed to unscrew the two large nuts (I believe 1 7/8")on each side (only back them off about an inch). I used plenty of penetrating oil on all the pins and nuts/threads for a couple days before doing the removal. I was pretty shocked to read in the shop manual that these nuts require a torque setting of almost 600 foot pounds! I was thinking that they would be a royal pain to loosen, but they came off pretty easy.
Pic of large nut that needs to be loosened:
After these nuts are loose, you start the tractor and slowly ease the backhoe up just enough to take some pressure off the two large pins so you can tap them out with a hammer. I had to work the stabilizers up and down as the pins were being tapped out to reduce the friction/load on the pins. (Most pins have a circlip, but mine had holes drilled thru the pins with a small bolt holding it in place). Once the two pins are out, continue raising the stabilizers as you watch the bottom of the backhoe begin to raise up out of the large "U" shaped slots at the bottom.
There is a large pin like this one on each side which then must be removed.
Pic showing the "U" shaped slots at the bottom of the tractor hitch:
Then make sure that the backhoe is raised high enough to allow the tractor to drive away. Be sure to then place a bunch of 6x6 blocks under the backhoe base so that it will be stable even if the stabilizers leak-down. The shop manual showed dismounting the backhoe in a "A" position, but I just left the backhoe in the fully extended position, which makes it easier for us to work on the cylinder joints. Here is a pic of the backhoe removed:
You will drive the tractor forward only about a foot. Then shut-down the tractor and disconnect the two quick-disconnect hydraulic lines from the tractor. (Be sure to reconnect the supply line to the return line of the tractor before starting the tractor and driving off. If you do not connect these two lines, the hydraulic pump will be straining under enormous pressure with no relief, and I imagine that you could blow lines or ruin the hydraulic pump).
Now we have MUCH easier access to all the lines/valves under the control tower:
(out of pic space, so will post next)
How to Remove Case 33 Backhoe from 1968 580 CK
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