Hello.
On my d6d 4x series Dozer with a 163 hydraulic system.
The blade control linkages are sloppy.
The system uses bell cranks that are hundreds of dollars! Looks like a machine shop is cheaper.
It also employs chrome hardened shafts that the bell crank mounts on and uses needle bearing cage system as bearings. A grease fitting as well.
The linkage rods use rod ends. You know...the eyelets that are kinda like go cart tie rod ends.
Does anyone know of a source to order the rod ends without paint caterpillar prices? Should a person use a higher grade rod end than factory?
It sucks to wear your arm out blading all day with worn blade control linkages. Ya know?
Anyone have any tops or experience at fixing this?
I've started on mine. A few pieces at a time.
The first piece is started on was the pivot shaft right beside the engine starter. Cat wanted $800 for two bell cranks! My chrome hard end shaft on the mount that attaches to frame was worn in. I ultimately found a shop that rebuilds bottle jacks and they had a hardened shaft. I had to press out the old shaft after a miserable removal of the mount from the frame beside rear engine mount. I had the shaft threaded on the end to hold top bolt. Now that I fixed that.....up under the seat I found more shafts and bell cranks and rod ends that are loose and wobbly!
Up on the hydraulic tank.....where the fork linkage has a pin that is installed into the hydraulic lever that attaches to the main up and down lever.....the lever hole is "wallered" out. I would have to remove the hydraulic tank to take it part to machine it or Something?? The rear of the cylinder head buts up against it. Idk....would a small roll of shim stock slide in such a hole?
Does anybody have experience with such fixes?
It would really make operating my nice Dozer a pleasure to have no slop!
Thanks!
On my d6d 4x series Dozer with a 163 hydraulic system.
The blade control linkages are sloppy.
The system uses bell cranks that are hundreds of dollars! Looks like a machine shop is cheaper.
It also employs chrome hardened shafts that the bell crank mounts on and uses needle bearing cage system as bearings. A grease fitting as well.
The linkage rods use rod ends. You know...the eyelets that are kinda like go cart tie rod ends.
Does anyone know of a source to order the rod ends without paint caterpillar prices? Should a person use a higher grade rod end than factory?
It sucks to wear your arm out blading all day with worn blade control linkages. Ya know?
Anyone have any tops or experience at fixing this?
I've started on mine. A few pieces at a time.
The first piece is started on was the pivot shaft right beside the engine starter. Cat wanted $800 for two bell cranks! My chrome hard end shaft on the mount that attaches to frame was worn in. I ultimately found a shop that rebuilds bottle jacks and they had a hardened shaft. I had to press out the old shaft after a miserable removal of the mount from the frame beside rear engine mount. I had the shaft threaded on the end to hold top bolt. Now that I fixed that.....up under the seat I found more shafts and bell cranks and rod ends that are loose and wobbly!
Up on the hydraulic tank.....where the fork linkage has a pin that is installed into the hydraulic lever that attaches to the main up and down lever.....the lever hole is "wallered" out. I would have to remove the hydraulic tank to take it part to machine it or Something?? The rear of the cylinder head buts up against it. Idk....would a small roll of shim stock slide in such a hole?
Does anybody have experience with such fixes?
It would really make operating my nice Dozer a pleasure to have no slop!
Thanks!
Refurbishing Caterpillar blade control linkages, rod ends, etc.. No slop!
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