"Restoring" a 310D - wear and rust

lundi 27 juillet 2015

Hi All,
I bought a 310D last year with about 5,500 hours on it. IT was purchased from the original owner who had it as his 'small' machine in his work fleet. The machine has a lot of rust but the engine is solid and major repairs have been completed.
Ive done the water pump, replaced the missing or clogged grease zerks (more on that later), replaced ALL the fluids and oils and started trying to stop the rust from spreading. Currently I am about the remove the seat so I can start working on the floor pan which has holes in it. I think I will have to just cut it out, put in reinforcement beams then new 1/4" thick plate.
I bought a Amulet Hoe Clamp and since that requires removing the pins to install it, I thought it was a good time to replace the back hoe bucket pins and bushings. The largest (and most expensive) pin that goes through the hydraulic ram was seized. Despite torching and hammering it I had to cut it - luckily my portable bandsaw made quick work of that. Using a stick welder and a hammer as suggest by the gurus on this board, I was able to get the old bushings out. New bushings went in easily enough after sitting overnight in the freezer and using a press from AutoZone. The new replacement pin has a grease fitting on it with individual grooves for each contact point.

Now the problem:
I have a lot of slop in the swing tower to boom pins/bushings . After lots of searching it looks like the swing tower did not come with any bushings (would have been #8 on the pic below of a 310C). So while I can replace the boom's bushings and both pins, it wouldnt help the swing tower's hole from getting more and more worn.
I understang one option is getting it line bored and welding in a bushing. But thats a lot of $$ for a farm property backhoe. Is it worth replacing the other bushings and pins or leave the whole thing as it is?

Thanks in advance!
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"Restoring" a 310D - wear and rust

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