My skid-steer uses a couple of hydraulic spool lockouts to keep the joystick from being operated without the key being on. One solenoid was in the habit of going out intermittently for some time, leaving me with only a half-operable joystick, before I got into it & discovered it wasn't some loose-connection issue. When I did pull out the offending coil, I had no replacement on hand, so I scrounged a coil off of a shelved electric-hydraulic pump - just a typical 12V accessory-electric-hydraulic pump. It worked fine, and I set about looking for an ebay bargain on two coils, thinking it was probably wise to have a spare on hand for the other one.
Those coils came in the mail, but with my temp setup working OK, the priority for swapping the newly-arrived one in for the scrounged one dropped pretty low on my to-do list.
Some months later, I started smelling hot insulation, and pretty soon could feel that the other coil was cooking-hot. When it started blowing plastic bubbles out the sides, I decided to move that item up on my to-do list again, and swap both the coils out for the surplus ones I'd ebayed almost a year ago, giving myself a pat on the back for my foresight in getting two of them on hand for this.
But MUCH to my dismay, though both solenoids are electrically functional (the coils are continuous and have some electromagnetic pull), neither one has anywhere near the strength to operate the lockouts. I swapped my scrounged one back in, thinking I must have screwed up on my wiring, but again, that one worked fine, making half of the joystick operable, with a distinct 'click' when power was applied. The new ones will not even twitch when energized/free on the stem, while my temp one will scoot itself right into position and make the valve workable.
So I'm guessing that, for some reason, not all 12V solenoid coils are created alike, even if they fit extremely-similar hydraulic valves? Anyone have any detailed knowledge of this, eg how to select, without having to ferret out an OE replacement? Are there listings of differing pull-strength ratings?
Dave
Those coils came in the mail, but with my temp setup working OK, the priority for swapping the newly-arrived one in for the scrounged one dropped pretty low on my to-do list.
Some months later, I started smelling hot insulation, and pretty soon could feel that the other coil was cooking-hot. When it started blowing plastic bubbles out the sides, I decided to move that item up on my to-do list again, and swap both the coils out for the surplus ones I'd ebayed almost a year ago, giving myself a pat on the back for my foresight in getting two of them on hand for this.
But MUCH to my dismay, though both solenoids are electrically functional (the coils are continuous and have some electromagnetic pull), neither one has anywhere near the strength to operate the lockouts. I swapped my scrounged one back in, thinking I must have screwed up on my wiring, but again, that one worked fine, making half of the joystick operable, with a distinct 'click' when power was applied. The new ones will not even twitch when energized/free on the stem, while my temp one will scoot itself right into position and make the valve workable.
So I'm guessing that, for some reason, not all 12V solenoid coils are created alike, even if they fit extremely-similar hydraulic valves? Anyone have any detailed knowledge of this, eg how to select, without having to ferret out an OE replacement? Are there listings of differing pull-strength ratings?
Dave
finer points of selecting replacement coils for hydraulic solenoids?
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